Installing recessed downlights may seem tricky, but with a clear lighting plan and a simple step-by-step approach, it’s very doable. Below we outline the options and then explain how to connect the spots. Follow this guide and your recessed lights will be shining in no time.

Tools you’ll need

Before you start, gather the essentials so the job runs smoothly.

- Voltage tester
- Screwdrivers (flat & Phillips)
- Wire stripper / side cutters
- Hole saw / hole cutter (correct cut-out size)

Step-by-step installation guide

1. Switch off the power

Turn off the power at the consumer unit (fuse box) or the relevant circuit. Use a voltage tester to confirm the circuit is dead. If the tester light does not turn on, there is no voltage present.

2. Cut the ceiling holes (if needed)

Recessed spots require a cut-out in the ceiling. If there isn’t one yet, make it with a hole saw. Use the manufacturer’s cut-out diameter and keep the hole slightly smaller (≈4 mm) than the full bezel diameter to ensure a snug fit.

3. Prepare and connect the supply cable

Strip about 2 cm of the outer sheath of the supply cable. Then strip approx. 6 mm of insulation from the inner conductors (typically brown live and blue neutral). Connect the supply to the downlight’s lead using two connectors (e.g., lever/WAGO). Match colours (blue to blue, brown to brown). Incorrect pairing can cause short circuits.

Two wiring methods for multiple downlights

1. Daisy-chain with connectors (optionally inside a protective junction box)
2. Central hub: connect all spots at one central point

Daisy-chaining with connectors (plus protective box)

Use a 3-way connector: the incoming supply enters the connector, the second outlet goes to the local downlight, and the third outlet daisy-chains to the next downlight. You can also use separate lever connectors housed in a IP-rated junction box for protection (especially in humid areas).

Central hub wiring

If you only have one feed point but want to connect multiple downlights, bring all spot leads to a single junction box and use a 3-/4-/5-/6-/7-/8-way coupler, depending on the number of spots. One output goes to each downlight. Note: with some wiring schemes, if one connection fails, other spots on the same hub can be affected.

4. Fit the light source

Many recessed downlights use a GU10 lamp. Assemble the fitting as instructed and insert the GU10 bulb with a quarter-turn into the GU10 holder.

Using a transformer? For low-voltage models, connect the transformer to the supply via connectors and then from the transformer to the downlights according to the wiring diagram.

Bathroom spots: zones & safety

Bathrooms are humid environments. Choose bathroom-rated downlights with at least IP44 protection for suitable zones (e.g., above shower/bath) and place fittings at safe distances from water sources.

There are two common types: 12V (safer in wet zones but requires a transformer and extra steps) and 230/220V (easier to install but must meet strict safety rules). Both can be used in bathrooms if the IP rating fits the zone. The table below shows minimum recommended IP ratings; you may opt for higher, e.g., IP65 in zones 2–3.

Zone	Minimum IP rating
0	IP68
1	IP65
2	IP44
3	IP21

Do not place low-IP fittings (e.g., IP21) in Zone 0. In Zone 3, IP44 is usually sufficient, though IP65 is also possible.

Safety first

Always isolate the power before working, verify with a tester, and follow the manufacturer’s wiring diagram. Ensure connectors and junction boxes are suitable for the location (bathroom zones, insulation contact, etc.). If unsure, consult a qualified electrician.